What is Upper Mustang like?
If you’ve ever come across a glimpse of Tibet in movies, pictures, vlogs, books, or any others; it is a remote, desolate, mountainous, isolated, barren, full of dirt tableland which sits at the top of the world. The Upper Mustang of Nepal is identical to Tibet in terms of geography and culture and also resides in the same Tibetian plateau but inside Nepal’s boundaries. What separates Upper Mustang from Tibet is the border between Nepal and Tibet which lies in Mainland China. In fact, the people who reside in the Upper Mustang region comprise mostly Tibetian descendants who left Tibet and settled in the region in the era of the Chinese occupation of Tibet. Thus rendering its culture and heritage similar to that of the people of Tibet with some Nepali tradition mixed in it.
Being so far and not much in touch with the modern world, the culture and tradition of these mountain people haven’t changed much since ancient times. Until the death of the late Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, the last King who reigned for over half a century, Upper Mustang used to be a Kingdom in the Himalayas.
Sheltered by some of the tallest mountains in the world and the Tibetian plateau, the Mustang District of Nepal is also famous for being the last Forbidden kingdom where its ancient cultural capital Lo Manthang is the only remaining walled city of Nepal. Up until 1992 visitors were not allowed in the Mustang region and even today tourism in the Upper Mustang area is strictly regulated requiring any foreigner to have 10 days permit for $500 USD and $50 extra per additional day which can be considered the most costly permit in Nepal though every penny spent is worth the experience gathered in the region.
How do we reach Upper Mustang?
Upon researching, watching vlogs, and reading articles, I found there were 4 methods by which we could reach Upper Mustang.
By trekking
Requires a minimum of 9 days from Jomsom to reach Upper Mustang and return back.
By bicycle
Requires a minimum of 9 days from Jomsom to reach Upper Mustang and return back with an average of 4 hours of biking per day.
By motorbike
A motorbike tour from Kathmandu usually takes on average 3 days to reach the upper mustang and 3 days to get back home.
By jeep
Same as reaching Upper Mustang by motorbike, a jeep tour takes a minimum of 6 days for the whole trip from Kathmandu.
Other methods of transport were not viable. You could reach Jomsom by plane or bus but from there you have to choose one of those mentioned above.
Being carefree and guys who like doing things our own way and just having 6 days of vacation left on our schedule we opted to go there on a motorbike.
Exploring Upper Mustang on Two Wheels: A Detailed Tour Itinerary
Day 1: Kathmandu to Pokhara
After receiving Tika on the occasion of Bijaya Dashami, we set out on our journey at around half past 10 in the morning. Our Trip was a nonstop bike ride except for while having lunch at a place called Mugling and every now and then for some short rest breaks. Upon closing in Pokhara, at around quarter past 6, heavy rain hit us where fortunately we got shelter for us and our belongings at a place called Shukla Gandaki until the rain resided. The first day was a smooth ride. We reached Pokhara at around 7 PM and decided to stay at a hotel nearby Lakeside.
Day 2: Pokhara to Jomsom
While we had decided to wake up at 4 and set on the journey at 6 while it was still daybreak, it got a bit different. Being tired from the previous day’s ride, we woke up at 7, freshened up, had our breakfast, and while checking out at the hotel it was already 9 AM. We packed our belongings and headed out. The road was okay for about an hour and then it turned bumpy. We stopped at Beni to have lunch, bought snacks, and headed for Jomsom. The road got way difficult from hereon. Sometimes it got slippery, sometimes dusty, but most of the time it was too bumpy that it gave blisters on the palm.
A beautiful place called Marpha with lush apple gardens and beautiful Buddhist monasteries came in between which was a sight to behold. It relieved us with the anticipation of our destination for the day, Jomsom being near and a bumpy ride for the day is coming to an end. At around 5 PM we reached Jomsom, searched for a hotel, booked a room, and got comfortable. The view of many snow-capped mountains lying so nearby was so admirable. A hot shower on a chilly evening at the end of the day felt so gratifying. We had dried yak meat and Marpha (Apple Brandy). The brandy was quite strong. We had dinner and slept early to rejuvenate for the next day’s journey.
Day 3: Jomsom to Lo Manthang
This day was the most exciting one as it was full of anticipation of what the forbidden kingdom beholds. We woke up at 6, ate breakfast, checked out, and left. Because it was peak season and all hotels were fully booked, we obtained the phone number of a lodge in Lo Manthang. Not knowing whether we’d get to stop for lunch on the way, we bought plenty of snacks. We bought some large-sized plastic to protect ourselves from the elements. The real beauty of Mustang came into sight after we left Jomsom. After a while, we reached a beautiful place lying over the corridor of the Kaligandaki river called Kagbeni where many Nepalese and Hollywood movies are shot. This is the last point where without a permit, foreigners cannot have access.
The road was comparatively smoother than that of the previous day up until this point. The real journey began from there onwards. It facilitated us with the sight of mountains withered by wind, sand dunes, and many snow-capped mountains in the background on a dry sunny day. As we moved on the road turned steeper and more full of dirt. The higher we elevated the more awe-inspiring the view became. Being at a high altitude, at times the pillion rider had to walk because the motorbike not performing well.
At around 3 PM we reached the walled city of Lo Manthang, got to the hotel, freshened up, and headed out to explore the premises. We roamed the city, saw the Buddhist monasteries from the outside, got outside from the settlements, and got out in the open. There were horses grazing in the fields. There were mountains not very far. It was a relaxing sight. Later we went to the lodge. The kind Hosts served us some Chinese-branded whiskey. We made merry. Later we had dinner and went to sleep planning to reach the Tibetian border the next day.
Day 4: Lo Manthang to The Tibetian border and Back to Jomsom
We woke up, freshened up, had breakfast, and while getting out told them about our plans to reach the Tibetan border to the lodge owner. He told us that we had perfect timing and that the Tiji festival was soon going to start. He also told us that we could enter the Tibetian land on that particular day as a small market would be set up on the Chinese territory. We thanked the owner and set out assuming ourselves lucky for having visited Upper Mustang at such a time. There were many small and large streams or glacial rivers full of small and big rocks on the way.
Once the motorbike got stuck in the middle of the river and one of my slippers which I brought from the hotel got carried away by the stream. Fortunately, my friend gave me his slippers as I was the rider and he got bare feet. A police check post was just beyond and we had to make an entry to pass that point. We saw caves used by the local people for various purposes such as the safekeeping of religious artifacts, storage of valuables, or burials from afar. We didn’t bother checking it out in detail and we moved on. Some tractors were found to be carrying tents, tables, chairs, and what seemed to be items necessary to establish small shops along the way. Finally, we reached our destination: The Tibetian border.
Upon arriving at the site it was found out there had been some gathering of people. The Chinese soldiers disinfected the tires of vehicles preparing them to let the entry to their side. They said it would take some time for people from the Nepalese side to enter the Tibetian area as there had not been enough preparations and it hadn’t been the time. We waited for a while, lost our patience, and decided to head back to the lodge at Lo Manthang. The purpose of the journey was fulfilled at the moment. We headed back contemplating the fun we had, the sights we saw, the people we had conversations with, and the memories we collected at the place. Now what was left on our minds was to reach the lodge fast, carry our belongings from there and head back to Jomsom.
We reached the lodge at around 12 PM, thanked the lodge owner, had lunch, carried our stuff, and descended downwards. And now what surrounded us again was the same jaw-dropping magnificent views. At times it felt like we were in heaven. We descended downwards enjoying ourselves having been at such a place, having experienced such a moment. We stopped at places to enjoy the view where we had left beforehand. It started to get windy as we got to the plains. As we approached Jomsom, my neck scarf got stuck in the rear wheel as we were riding with the thought of having finally arrived at the end of the day’s journey. Luckily nothing happened to me. We wasted around half an hour there trying to take the scarf from the wheel. We were successful and at around 5 we reached Jomsom. All hotels were almost full. We found a room after searching for a while. We had dinner and went to sleep.
Day 5: Jomsom to Pokhara
What was most beautiful had already been enjoyed. What was left was the tiring bumpy ride down to Pokhara. We woke up, freshened up, had breakfast at the hotel, packed our belongings, and headed back to Pokhara. At Marpha we bought some souvenirs for family and friends which were mostly made out of apples such as Marpha(Apple Brandy), and some dried apple slices. Upon arriving at Beni we had lunch, fueled our tank, and again hit the road.
Closing into Pokhara, again a huge rain hit us and we had to take shelter in a tea shop. Finally, we arrived in Pokhara after it got dark, and stayed at the same hotel where we had stayed earlier. Our Plans to walk around the lakeside failed for us being so tired and it being late though we decided to party in the hotel instead. We drank some rum, chilled from the balcony of the hotel, had dinner outside, came back to the hotel, and had a good night’s sleep.
Day 6: Pokhara to Kathmandu
On the final day of our journey, we woke up late at 8. We had our breakfast, checked out of the hotel, and got back on the road again, but this time the road wasn’t as bad as that of the previous day, so it was fine. We rode at a slower pace and stopped many times on the way for snacks and rest breaks. There was a long traffic jam but being on a bike we didn’t have to stop at many places. At around 2 PM we reached Kathmandu and went to our home.
In conclusion
In conclusion, Upper Mustang is a unique and fascinating destination that offers a unique blend of Tibetan and Nepali cultures. Located in the Himalayan mountain range and within the Tibetan plateau, it was once a forbidden kingdom that is now accessible to visitors with a special permit. There are several options for getting to Upper Mustang, including trekking, biking, motorbiking, and jeep touring. Each option offers its own set of benefits and challenges, and it is important to carefully consider which one is right for you based on your interests, fitness level, and time constraints. No matter which method you choose, a trip to Upper Mustang is sure to be an unforgettable experience that you will cherish for a lifetime.