Where is Rasuwagadhi?
Rasuwagadhi is a border point and village development committee in Rasuwa District in the Bagmati Zone of central Nepal. It is located on the border with Tibet and is the site of a border crossing and customs checkpoint. It is about 136 km north of Kathmandu and 20 km northwest of the district headquarters of Dhunche.
Some Interesting Facts about Rasuwagadhi:
- Rasuwagadhi is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet and serves as a major trade route between the two countries.
- The Gadhi or Fort, located near the border crossing, was built by the Nepalese government in the early 18th century to defend against invasions by the Tibetan army.
- It is also home to the famous high-altitude Lake Gosainkunda, which is considered sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists.
- The area is also known for its scenic beauty, with the Langtang National Park and the Rasuwa Gadhi Rural Municipality nearby.
- It is also the main entry point for Kerung which is a town located in Tibet, China where Nepalese can visit without a visa for a day by making an entry pass at the border.
How we reached Rasuwagadhi?
What inspired us for this trip is the thought of getting to sleep under a clear starry sky, alongside a river, inside a lush green forest, away from civilization and its noise where I could rejuvenate my inner peace of mind.
Having had multiple unsuccessful plans of camping for over three years, we have had enough of waiting and thought of not letting this moment slip by. With no prior experience in setting up a camp, let alone sleeping inside a tent, it was completely uncharted territory for us. We gathered some information from the internet, made a checklist of what to bring to the trip, and shopped accordingly. With a lot of excitement, days of planning, and preparation, on Monday 26th of October 2020, we embarked on our tiny expedition to a place called Rasuwagadhi which serves as a border between Nepal and China.
Day 1: Kathmandu to Tupche(Nuwakot)
It was the day of the tika. Having parents following the Christian faith and myself being non-religious, I had nothing to do except anticipate what the trip was going to be like. After putting tika, my friend Bijay came to my house at around 12 pm and our final packing began. Among all our camping equipment, kitchenware, food, etc., the most troubling were the beers we bought a day earlier for the trip. There were 18 small bottles and a lot of headaches about where to put them. We decided that we’d put 6 in each of our backpacks and 6 in the saddlebag that we thought of tying at the back of a bike. It was around 2 pm; everything was tied and carried and with blessings and good wishes from our parents we set out.
The adventure began and I was happy. It was all okay while getting out but one thing that bothered us was we had to carry a heavy backpack and it started aching my back and shoulder just after a while. We reached Gurjebhanjyang and asked armies over there whether or not we needed to fill our entries but they let us through without asking for any information. With a clear view of mountains in the background and a valley in the front, we then descended from Gurjebhanjyang to Gurung Gau and there we decided to lessen the load of 2 bottles of beer and some snacks. Sweet jazz playing on my earpiece, cool breeze of mountain air hitting my face, intoxicated on 330mls of 8% alcohol, and a great companion along the way, what more did I need for it to be bliss?
The road from Gurjebhanjyang to Chhahare was okayish but beyond that, it was better. On wide and empty roads our pace began but upon reaching Dhikure we had to slow down. Some portion of it reminded me of the way of Beni to Jomsom. It was awful. We reached Battar and then we sped up again.
Previously we favored the Dhunge-Betrawati highway but having a better road on the opposite mountain we chose our route from Dhunge-Trishuli Bazar-Santibazar. We had planned to camp somewhere near Bhangekhola which is most popular with the name The Mailung Jharna. Dusk was nearing and getting to Mailung would still take some time. Upon closing into Tupche, a small river came in sight across the highway and we decided it would be our campsite for the time being.
We took our bikes to a secluded space and unpacked our belongings there. Right after we set up our tent and started preparing our dinner which was typical Khasi ko masu, home cooked with lots of love by my mother; with rice which we boiled there. The moon was shining and we cracked open some bottles of beer under the clear starry sky. After we had our dinner we cleaned the dishes in the nearby stream. We called it a day and got inside the tent and slid inside our sleeping bags. Thus ended our first day of the trip.
Day 2: Tupche(Nuwakot) to Bhangekhola/Mailung-Waterfall to Dhunche
Knowing that Mailung lay just some KMs away, we had plenty of time to wake up. The sun was up and still, we didn’t feel like getting up as we were tired from carrying that load. It took us a while to get up and we started preparing something for breakfast. I could see people on the highway staring at us. We had our coffee, cooked noodles with some sausages, had it, and packed our stuff which took us a whole hour to do so. We then were ready for our second day of adventure.
On the way to Mailung Jharna lay my mamaghar which I had plenty of time to visit but I didn’t think it was right for it being a time of pandemic and there having my old grandparents. We decided to not stop anywhere except for resting spots and our final destination for the day. We reached the Mailung Jharna, picked up our bag with snacks and those pesky beer bottles which we were finding annoying to carry on our backs, and started climbing upwards.
I still remember it, as a kid, we had to walk a long steep climb to reach Dandagau where my old mamaghar used to be. We could see the origin of the Mailung Jharna on our way and it used to be known by the name of Bhangekhola. I would be terrified to go to mamaghar just because of the danger that lay on the edge of the waterfall. It used to be so wet and slippery that I had to walk on my four limbs which were frightening. There’s a myth about how the waterfall was named Bhangekhola. It’s said that the villages nearby had to live in constant fear of a wild mountain bear(Bhalu). One day the villagers decided that they have had enough of the menace, teamed up, and pushed the bear from the slippery cliff of the waterfall thus rendering its name Bhangekhola.
We started climbing the rocks, got a bit higher, and found a big enough puddle that we could fit ourselves into. We unpacked our bags, took out some beer bottles, undressed, and dipped our toes in the water. It felt wonderful. The water was chilly and the sun was hot. I could see water falling from the top of the cliff and the wind blowing it a bit further to the side. Vehicles that took tourists to Langtang Region could be seen from there. There were small fishes in the puddle that we dipped ourselves into. We decided to not carry the remaining beers any further from there and drank them all. What a day to be alive I felt inside.
A bit tipsy and having had enough of sunbath we decided to descend and head for Dhunce which was our stop for the day. It was already 1 PM on our descent. We were finally ready to head out. At a place called Kalikasthan which is just a km away from where my paternal grandparents live, on an army check post, we made another entry. On our way, we went to a place called Syau Bari, presumably an apple orchard but not a single apple tree was seen. We rehydrated, filled our bellies, and took off.
Then came Ramche and the way got bumpier. Just around 16 KMs of the way till Dhunche felt like 60. We didn’t need to hurry, we thought and rode slowly. Upon closing into Dhunche we made another entry at another army checkpost. It was soon getting dark and chilly. Now we had to hurry up as we still had not thought of a place to pitch our tent. Our trip was all about being away from civilization so staying near the bazaar area was not an option. So we headed towards Ghattekhola which is the starting point of the Gosaikunda Trail.
Dusk closing in on us and not finding a good place to settle we were nearing a panic situation. The temperature was getting colder every minute. Luckily we found a plain ground with a nice view and decided to stay the night there. We unpacked and set up our camp and started wandering. Some locals saw us there and suggested that we stay in a hotel rather than that place as it would get chilly cold at night. We thanked them for the information but we had our set up staying outdoors.
This trip was a whole camping trip and there had to be no hotels involved. Despite this, we decided to buy some firewood from the locals and burn them to keep ourselves warm. There came two kids and a dog who used to live in an ox shed above a cliff near. They kept us company till midnight and headed to their shelter. We went to sleep as well.
Day 3: Dhunche to Syabrubesi to Rasuwagadhi to Dhunche back
Who would have guessed that mornings in Dhunche could be so freezing? Upon getting out of the sleeping bag we felt the cold weather. The dome of the tent was super wet and dew drops dribbled over us. Even having all of our clothes on wasn’t warm enough. We had to eat and get ready as this was the day with most of the anticipation. This was the day that we would reach Rasuwagadhi. We had to clean our dishes from the previous day and that too in the cold freezing water. We had breakfast, cleaned the dishes, packed all our belongings, and headed toward the border. In doing so it already turned 10 AM. Now we got ready and set out.
Just some 100 meters away from Dhunche Bazar there came another checkpost where we were asked where we were headed to. We replied, towards Rasuwagadhi. They asked for what purpose and we replied to travel. They let us through. We were on the road again. My Spotify playlist crashed the other night and now had no songs to play. I didn’t want the journey to be without music so I started downloading the playlists again. I am someone who has always loved to listen to music in higher bitrates and being at such a remote place I could download just around 10 songs and I had to listen to the same songs over and over again which was in fact boring.
After a boring while and some downturns away, we reached Chilime where they have the hydropower plant, and then to a place called Syabru Besi where the famous Langtang Trekking Trail begins. I wanted to toss my bike around and head straight toward Langtang but the situation had me grounded. It’s okay I’ll be back around I thought and then headed out. We bought some local beer and snacks and headed for the border.
On our way there came another waterfall where we decided to have lunch. We ate, had our beer, dipped in the icy freezing water, and again embarked on our journey. Then came Timure, the last town on the Nepalese side towards the border. Some awe-inspiring mountains so close by could be seen from there. I wanted to spend the night at this place and thought we’d set up our camp on our way back from Rasuwagadhi. We went ahead and finally reached Rasuwagadhi, the border between Nepal and China.
There we were. We had accomplished our goal. We saw how Nepal and China differ in terms of development, discipline, and management. The other side felt like a place that had it all while our side seemed like a trash dumping dumpster. The road on the other side was all paved with asphalt while ours was full of dirt, dust, and slippery. There were lots of container trucks lying on the side of the road for having the border closed and not getting to cross on the other side to transport goods. We stayed for a while, looked around, and decided to head back. We got on our bikes and returned back.
Upon reaching Timure we met some other travelers who too were planning to go to Rasuwagadhi but the police were not letting them. We found ourselves lucky not to be stopped by any circumstances. There was a hotel that seemed to give the best view possible from that vantage point but the hotel was no option for us. Though it was cooler than Dhunche, I wanted to spend the night over there. We searched for some places but did not find a suitable place to crash which was a bit further from civilization. We inquired with some locals too. There were some places to pitch tents higher up but armies did not allow us to. With sad hearts, we had to turn around and head back to Dhunche. It was the same waterfall where we ate before where we just had coffee this time and headed back to Dhunche.
Finding a new spot was going to be another headache so we decided to reach the same place where we had camped the night before. We bought chicken meat which was going to be our dinner. We bought firewood from the same local. The kids and the dog kept us company this day too. This time we thought of cooking our food on fire but were having a hard time setting up our fireplace. The local kids knew better ways and taught us how it’s really done. We cooked our dinner, shared it with them, and went to sleep after a while.
Day 4: Dhunche to Nuwakot Durbar to Suryachaur
Our Goal was met, and Rasuwagadhi was reached. All that remained was to get back home safe and sound. The sun was out already and the kids already started going to their homes to have breakfast. It was cold in the morning but once the sun got out it was scorching hot. We didn’t want to wake up that soon so we stayed inside our sleeping bags. Our stomachs started growling and now we thought of getting up.
This time we went to Ghattekhola which is also the origin of the Trishuli river and decided we’d have our breakfast over there. We still had some bread and eggs left for the toast and even had that spicy noodles called Current that we bought but never had a chance to eat and we prepared our tasty delicious breakfast. The dog that kept us company the whole night came along with us as well. We ate, loosened up, and got fresh. We met some trekkers heading toward Gosaikunda too. It was such a beautiful moment. We now had to return to our campsite, pack our belongings and head back to Kathmandu.
It was already 11 when we finished packing. The freezing weather suddenly turned scorching hot in the presence of the sun. We said goodbyes to the kids and the dog got on our bikes and headed back. Everything was good. The trip was a success. The only thing that was bothering me was just having not enough music on my phone. I had to listen to the same 10 songs that I’d been listening to non-stop for the past couple of days. What a shitshow it was. While getting outside of Dhunche we again needed to make an entry on the check post.
The same 10 songs twice and we reached Ramche back. Those same 10 songs twice and now we reached Kalikasthan where we needed to make another entry at the checkpost. The same 10 songs twice and now we reached Trishuli Bazar where we decided to eat momos which I had not had in a while. I was skeptical to enter a public restaurant for it being a time of pandemic but I thought of not caring much and enjoyed my hard-earned momos after a long tiring journey. After we ate our momos and decided we’d camp somewhere around Nuwakot Durbar this night. We knew Nuwakot Durbar was not much further from there so we were steady. We were on our way to the Durbar, eying every corner of the road or top of the hills for finding a nice and cozy place again to set up our camp.
There were plenty of places to just sleep but no source of water. And then it started getting dark. We thought maybe we could pitch our tent someplace on the beach of Chahare Khola. It might have been great, sleeping on the beach but then I had the urge to go sleep on top of the hill in Suryachaur. We’ve slept plenty of times in lodges over there but a camping experience would be new I thought. But Bijay and I had disagreements about where we were staying for the night. He said it was getting late and we should sleep on the beach but I wanted to go to the top of the hill and sleep inside a tent. It was dark already and we sped up disregarding the condition of the road.
Finally what was concluded was that we’d stay in a lodge in Suryachaur for it being late and pitching a tent was going to be troublesome at night. Though it was the time of COVID, Shivapuri national park was closed off to visitors, and Suryachaur being inside the park, we weren’t allowed to go there. It was dark and late already but we decided to go anyways. So we booked a room over there. We had our dinner and went to bed. It was around 10 PM a squeaking noise came from the next room. And suddenly it turned into the sound of furniture banging on the wall to a couple of loud moans. We were astounded by what we just heard. It was humorous and comical. The hotel owners too heard their loud moans so they played the radio so loud that we couldn’t have a good night’s sleep.
This continued at the dawn as well. So here’s a tip for you, if you think of spending a romantic night in this place, Don’t. Nothing stops your voice from reaching the other side of the wall as what separates the rooms are just tin or plyboard partitions and some even have holes in them. So you’d need to be careful inside there.
Day 5: Suryachaur to Kathmandu back
This day was the easiest one. We did not have much to do. What was left was to just get home, have a warm shower and plenty of rest home is just an hour further we took it easy. The loud moans from the same couple the other night woke us up. What an inconsiderate couple we thought of them for not caring whether they would disturb other people’s good night’s sleep.
The sun was up and our breakfast was ready. The weather was breezy and clear. We had tea and omelets for our breakfast and we got outside to feel the air of Suryachaur. Then we got to the edge of a cliff, looked at the mountains on the other side, and tried to find the Langtang mountain range. We contemplated our time being on the lap of the Himalayas and took some pictures of ourselves and the place. We headed back to the lodge and asked the owner ama to make sukuti sadeko with some cheura for lunch. She made us a delicious one. After eating, paying our bills, and packing our stuff, we bid farewell to the lodge owners and hit the road again.
This was the last checkpost where we had to stop. They asked for some information. We made an entry and got on our way. And some songs later we found ourselves at my house unpacking our belongings. After a while, Bijay headed to his home. I went for a shower, took a nap after that, and thus ended our Rasuwagadhi tour 2076.
Takeaway
Rasuwagadhi is a border point and village development committee located in the Rasuwa District in central Nepal, on the border with Tibet. It serves as a major trade route between Nepal and Tibet and features a border crossing and customs checkpoint. It is situated about 136 km north of Kathmandu and 20 km northwest of the district headquarters of Dhunche. The area is also home to the historic Gadhi or Fort, which was built in the early 18th century to defend against invasions by the Tibetan army. Additionally, the area is known for its scenic beauty, including the Langtang National Park and Rasuwa Gadhi Rural Municipality. The main entry point for Kerung, is a town in Tibet, China where Nepalese can visit for a day without a visa.
Two friends embarked on a camping trip to Rasuwagadhi, facing challenges such as carrying heavy backpacks, and poor road conditions, but ultimately finding the journey worth it for the beautiful scenic views and the opportunity to rejuvenate their inner peace of mind. Along the way, we enjoyed the company of each other, sweet music, the cool breeze of mountain air hitting our faces, and a few occasional partying along the way. We camped at secluded places at Tupche and Dhunche and enjoyed the starry sky, moon, and campfire. We enjoyed the Mailung Jharna and ended the day in Dhunche.
We faced different checkposts and were asked their purpose of travel, but we were let through. We reached Chilime, where we saw a hydropower plant, and Syabrubesi where the Langtang trekking trail begins, we bought local beer and snacks and headed for the border. We reached Rasuwagadhi and saw how Nepal and China differ in terms of development, discipline, and management, and were impressed by the road on the Chinese side.
We thought about staying the night at Timure but were unable to find a suitable place to crash, so we returned back to Dhunche. We were unable to find a new spot, so we returned to the same place where we had camped the night before and cooked their dinner on fire with the help of local kids.
Biding farewell to the lodge owners at Suryachaur on the final day, we reached the last checkpoint, made an entry, and headed back to Kathmandu where we both unpack their belongings and Bijay headed back to his home. The trip to Rasuwagadhi 2076 ends with a shower and nap.